2018 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, A$265
A stunning wine from the get-go that immediately shows its tremendous class, thanks to its precision, purity and power. The fruit is young and taut; citrus, melon and spice aromas slowly unwind to show hints of praline and white flowers. There is then a fantastic fruit drive on the full-bodied palate courtesy of the firm acidity. It retains a silky mouthfeel over a finish that is long and strong. Already super and with 10-plus years ageing potential.
2018 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, A$235
The Bougros vineyards sit on the lower part of Chablis’ slope of Grand Crus, so receive plenty of sun and are protected from the wind, all of which creates powerful and rich local styles. This wine from William Fevre beautifully combines a fuller, sweeter expression with delicacy and finesse. Melon, citrus and nougat flavours thanks to a short period in oak. A fine minerality rises up on the palate which is long and powerful. A superb Bougros with plenty of ageing potential.
2018 Domaine Bernard Defaix 1er Cru Côte de Léchet Chablis, A$78
Bernard Defaix has well and truly made its mark as one of the top producers in Chablis and it’s also one of the few certified organic growers in the region. The wines show great purity of fruit and faithfully represent their terroirs, including Côte de Lechet, where they are the largest landholder. Beautifully bright and generous pear, citrus and floral fruit aromas lead to an elegant, concentrated palate with chalky acidity supporting a long, subtle finish. Delicious now but will hold over the medium term.
2018 Domaine du Chardonnay Premier Cru Montmains Chablis, A$73
This Chablis is from one of the outstanding Premier Crus located on a cooler site protected from the afternoon sun. This example is quite classic: floral, chalky and sweet honeydew melon walking a line of concentration and subtlety. The compact and silky palate is dominated by chalky/stony fruits, with bright acidity driving a long, seamless and drying finish. Very good value.
2018 Louis Michel & Fils Montée de Tonnerre, A$108
From one of the finest Premier Crus, which shares a similar aspect to the region’s Grand Crus, this is an exceptional wine that holds plenty of promise for enjoyment over the long term. At the moment it is still tightly wound – a powerful core of citrus, floral and mineral fruits before a firm, acid-driven palate with brilliant balance and a long, mineral-flavoured finish. Exceptional, but it really needs at least five years to show its best.
2018 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons, A$92
Vaillons is one of the larger and most respected Premier Crus, crafting linear, acid-driven Chablis. This is a great example with fabulous power and precision. Pale in colour and still quite closed, it is filled with chalky, floral fruits with a distinctive stony, mineral tang. The palate is then elegant – chalky acidity providing energy to drive its vibrant fruit to a lingering and silky finish. Delicious now as an aperitif but its finest days will be over the next 5-10 years as it fills out.
2018 Jean Defaix Chablis Grand Cru Valmur, A$145
A rich Grand Cru style showcasing Valmur’s advantageous exposure to the sun – however the wine still has plenty of fruit detail. Powerful nougat, rockmelon, citrus and earthy nuances provide impact and exceptional complexity, followed by a full-bodied and robust, crisp palate that is long and strong. There is also fantastic acid balance with that fruit power, which will see this wine drink beautifully well past the decade mark.
2019 Louis Michel & Fils Chablis, A$64
A super village Chablis that overdelivers and tops many Premier Crus for quality and drinkability. The fruit is punchy and pure – green apple, wet stones and honeydew melon – with great impact, energy and vitality. That concentration continues on the palate, where ripe and generous fruit of exceptional length underpins the crisp acidity – with that energy again on display. Superb drinking now, but the balance and fruit concentration will support cellaring for up to five years.
2018 Jean-Marc Brocard Vau de Vey Chablis Premier Cru, A$60
Vau de Vey is one of the lesser known Premier Crus in Chablis located in a cool valley near Poinchy. This example is quite complex although fruity in style with restrained power. Rounded melon and citrus rind aromas are followed by quite a fleshy palate with a creamy texture provided added weight. With subdued acidity this wine will be better enjoyed over the short term.
2019 Simonnet-Febvre Petit Chablis, A$30
Good value can be hard to find in Chablis thanks to a string of small vintages, but look no further than this village-level wine that shows plenty of regional typicity. Pale in colour, the fruits are bright and fresh with chalky cantelope aromas leading to a palate with good richness, power and length. The combination of generous fruit and good acidity provides some staying power, which will see it drink well over the next five years.
2019 Clotilde Davenne Chablis, A$59
A fairly typical example of village Chablis. This wine has pristine and bright melon and citrus fruits along with an attractive mineral, almost earthy, edge and good concentration from the 2019 vintage. The palate is more savoury and spicy, with the key element of crisp acidity providing backbone to generous, pure fruits and supporting a lingering finish. Best enjoyed over the next four years.
2018 Pierrick Laroche Domaine des Hâtes Petit Chablis, A$43
Long time suppliers of fruit to the local co-operative, Pierrick Laroche started his own label in 2010 with estate grown fruit now augmented with chardonnay from local growers. This wine is everything you can expect from Petit Chablis. Pale in colour with bright chalky and citrus fruit aromas showing good complexity. It is then light-bodied and acid driven although fruit is generous for the appellation which makes for a wine well suited to youthful drinking.