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This ‘nest in the hills’ (the Aboriginal meaning of the word ‘mudgee’) continues to evolve. New players are building on the region’s long wine history, which dates back to 1858.

Robert Stein

Star Cellar Door

(02) 6373 3991

Jacob Stein is on a roll with his counterintuitive rieslings leading the way. Counterintuitive because Mudgee isn’t regarded as a premium white wine region, but Stein’s swathe of accolades proves the critics wrong. Also decorated are Stein’s shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, with the wall of the functional cellar door attesting to their success.

An equal drawcard is the Pipeclay Pumphouse Restaurant where Andy Crestani crafts food of honesty and integrity, with much of the produce grown on the property. Add the quirky Motorbike Museum (founder Robert Stein was an avid ‘bikie’) and it’s easy to see this is no everyday cellar door.

However, the wines remain the focus, with Stein’s bold shiraz and cabernet sauvignons sharing equal standing with his rieslings. PETER BOURNE

OUTSTANDING WINE: 2017 Robert Stein Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, A$50

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