best buy wines

Over $35 

2020 Giant Steps Wombat Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, A$65
The pick this vintage was so small that winemaker Steve Flamsteed had to carefully consider if it was financially worth it. The quality of fruit, however, was too high to ignore, and the resulting wine is superb. The texture makes a grand impression, a sweep of the finest, satiny tannins with a gentle pucker finishing the wine. Fragrance is rosehip tea, raspberries, exotic spice and floral whiffs, while flavours are set to dark berries laced with clove, truffle and game meat. Stellar.  MB

2018 Eden Road Canberra Syrah, Canberra District, A$50
The wine-producing duo at Eden Road share a common French heritage, with Celine Rousseau breathing fresh air into the cellar while compatriot Thomas Lefebvre takes great care of the vines. The reward for their efforts is this terrific 2018 syrah. Perfumes of ripe raspberries and black cherries mingle with white pepper and spice. It’s medium-bodied yet intensely flavoured, with loads of sweet berry fruits, a lift of whole-bunch character and fine sinewy tannins.  PB

2018 Felton Road Calvert Pinot Noir, Central Otago, NZ$68
From the hottest vintage on record during the months of October to January followed by a cool, wet February – with harvesting starting on 28 February. The unusual season produced a wine of surprising delicacy with impressive underlying power. Ripe plum, cherry, red rose, violet and a suggestion of spicy oak and cocoa powder. Accessible now but with potential.  BC

2018 Paringa Estate Robinson Vineyard Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, A$80
Hugh Robinson is a significant grape grower and this individual vineyard wine was made by pinot maestro Lindsay McCall. It’s at the richer, fuller-bodied end of the Mornington spectrum, a hearty wine that would suit hearty food. Rich red-purple colour and an intense spicy aroma laced with leather, undergrowth and char-oak characters. It is full-bodied and dense, rich and layered, with tannins that will see it age long and profitably for at least a decade. Considerable charm and structure.  HH

2019 Vasse Felix Chardonnay, Margaret River, A$40
Vasse Felix continues to deliver more fruit weight in its chardonnay. Penetrative aromas of grapefruit, yellow peach and lemon reveal notes of coriander, charcuterie meats and a whiff of marl. Its creamy core of generous, translucently clear citrus and stone fruit flavours moves with shape and balance towards a focused and vivacious finish of lingering mineral and briny nuances.  JO

2019 Grosset Pinot Noir, Adelaide Hills, A$80
Although the name Grosset is synonymous with exceptional riesling, single-vineyard pinot noir is one of the portfolio’s real stars. The fruit is sourced from a south-facing vineyard in the cool Piccadilly Valley in the Adelaide Hills. You’ll find sour cherry, cranberry and mulberry fruit enveloped by a matrix of fine tannins and integrated acidity. Although the fragrance is alluring and flavour delicious, it is the purity, poise and composure of the wine that sets it apart. Tight, refined and a worthy addition to any cellar.  TP