best buy wines

imports over $35 

2018 Domaine Rohrer Nouvelle Lune Red, Alsace, France, A$60
Pinot from Alsace doesn’t usually set hearts on fire, but this wine, from a dedicated, organic producer, is special. The fruit character, both in bouquet and palate, are set to pomegranate and cranberry with game meat and mushroomy notes woven through. The tannins are soft, the wine is slight but packed full of flavour. It sits in the palate with a savouriness rather than primary fruited feel, reminiscent of cru Beaujolais or less oak-led Burgundy wines. Succulent texture and epic length.  MB

2018 Fabien Coche Bourgogne Aligoté, CÔte d’Or, France, A$52
Fourth-generation vigneron Fabien Coche took over his family’s vineyards in 2005. A small parcel of the ancient grape aligoté in his Meursault plot was nurtured in stainless steel for almost a year before bottling. It’s vibrant, with plenty of drive and energy witnessed by aromas of fresh ginger, Bosc pear and white peach. The gingery spiciness is repeated on the palate with an enthralling texture and decisive finish. A textbook example of this increasingly sought-after variety.  PB

2015 Dosterras Grenache, DO Montsant, Spain, NZ$69
From organic grapes grown in soils rich with clay, limestone and granite in Montsant, which is in the Catalonia region in north-east Spain. 100% grenache aged in 500l French oak puncheons for 14 months. Good depth of colour. A rich, dense and concentrated example of this style, with baked earth, dark fruits, old leather, violet and pronounced spicy flavours.  BC

2016 Azienda Collefrisio Semis Bianco Terre di Chieti IGT, Abruzzo, Italy, A$60
This flagship dry white is blended from three local grapes: trebbiano, falanghina and pecorino. It has a deep, rich, golden-yellow colour, suggesting both bottle age and barrel fermentation. The bouquet confirms both of the above: it’s richly toasty, with roast hazelnut and dried-floral notes that turn super-spicy on the palate. A lovely wine, loaded with flavour, full bodied but not heavy. The balance is excellent, the palate line seamless. Best drinking now to three years.  HH

2019 Bosco de’ Medici Pompeii Bianco Pompeiano IGT, Campania, Italy, A$49
From Pompeii comes this 100% caprettone, fermented in both amphorae and stainless steel. Pristine, vivacious and not especially complex, it is generous and mouth-wateringly refreshing, crying out for chargrilled crustaceans and garfish. Its voluminous bouquet of green melon, candied lemon rind and waxy dried flowers precedes a long, racy palate with mouth-filling fruit wrapped in a tangy acidity and underpinned by an ultra-fine, slatey spine. It finishes with a delightful lick of brine.  JO

2018 Domaine Faiveley Mercurey Clos Rochette Monopole, Burgundy, France, A$56
2018 was an early ripening vintage in the Côte Chalonnaise, evident in the wine by the fruit flavours’ prominence on the front palate. This generosity is balanced by good acidity, and the wine tightens on the back palate and finishes with freshness. Pleasant oak nuances arise from roughly half the volume undergoing fermentation in French oak, a quarter being new barrels. It is a lovely wine, which opens up well in the glass, and is a delight to drink.  TP